Lunchtime at Anton Piotrowski's Brown and Bean

Anton Piotrowski, winner of Masterchef: The Professionals 2012, previously of the Treby Arms, has recently opened 'Brown and Bean' restaurant in Plymouth city centre. I was in Plymouth one lunchtime so decided to pop by and try it out with my friend Fifi.

The decor was stylish and rustic with numerous photos of the proprietors on the walls, giving it a cosy, family feel. Napkins covered the newly printed menus so viewing it was like uncovering a surprise. And what a surprise it was. Some fantastic options, with enough details to intrigue but not too much that you can guess what it'll look like!

Being lunchtime and having a drive back to Exeter ahead of us, we just stuck to water to drink. The bread and butter came out and was announced as homemade sourdough bread with marmite butter. Marmite and butter in one lovely smooth combination? Yes please! I then had to fight the urge not to make the classic mistake of filling up on bread, normally a simple task, but with the addition of marmite butter, a lot trickier!


Soon came our starters. Fifi chose the heritage beetroot with goats cheese mousse, candied walnuts, beetroot gel and walnut gel. It looked great, bright colours and very natural looking, like walking through flowers in a woodland. I was assured it tasted delicious too.


I chose the Fish and Chips, not your typical starter! This was: blowtorched cod, square chiplets, scraps, pea and mint puree and a tartar-y sauce. On the choice of plate too, this looked fantastic. It tasted great, like a refined, grown-up version of the fish and chips we all love.


For mains, Fifi had the gurnard with aged soya, broccoli, marmite and parsnip puree. A return of the marmite! And was very happy with the choice.


I had the rump steak with horseradish, confit shallots, mushroom, broccoli, bacon fat potatoes, beef dripping gravy and a lime zest thingy. I'm currently not a mushroom fan but well aware that no self-proclaimed foodie can dislike mushrooms so I keep tasting and trying until I do. So I was a bit nervous about my choice...

I needn't have been, the dish was lovely. The beef was cooked nice and pink, the confit shallots soft and tasty, and the mushrooms, (which I was informed by my Asian food lover friend were shitake), were bloody lovely and complimented the rest of the dish really well. Hoorah for a new mushroom exploration period of my life!


With places to be and people to see we had to forgo the dessert. I guess the only thing for it is to return, see you soon Brown and Bean and thank you for a delicious lunch!


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